Comment from Michael Malencia
AnonymousSupportIndividual
Summary: The commenter supports the recognition of wilderness climbing and the allowance of fixed anchors but argues that the proposed review processes are too lengthy. They request streamlined procedures for replacing anchors, easier authorization for new routes, and programmatic preauthorization for specific climbing areas.
Wilderness climbing presents a unique way to experience some truly sacred places in this country. However, lengthy review processes would impede the maintenance of existing hardware, which is crucial to maintaining safe access for climbers, and would impede route development, which by its nature involves a lot of unknown until the route is established.
I support the recognition that climbing is an appropriate Wilderness activity and that fixed anchors, critical pieces of the climbing safety system, are allowable in Wilderness. I also support provisions to allow climbers to place or replace fixed anchors without authorization in the event of an emergency. I appreciate that the policy protects existing climbing routes that were developed before the PARC Act was passed into law. Legacy Wilderness climbs should remain available in order to preserve America’s rich climbing legacy.
Please improve policies to expedite timely replacement of fixed anchors in order to avoid unnecessary barriers to climber safety. The authorization process for new climbing routes that require fixed anchors should be easier to navigate. Please provide a clear path for programmatic authorization, or preauthorization, at climbing areas that do not necessitate case-by-case special use permits.