Comment from Justin Chapman
AnonymousSupportIndividual
Summary: The commenter, identifying as a recreational climber, supports the proposed guidance and the Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act. They argue that fixed anchors are essential safety equipment that preserve climbing heritage and request streamlined processes for anchor replacement and programmatic authorization.
I support the Access Fund's recommendations and appreciate the agencies' efforts to implement the Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act in a practical way. As a recreational climber, I believe fixed anchors are essential safety equipment, not development of the landscape. A handful of well-placed bolts has far less impact on Wilderness character than the trails and other facilities that already allow the public to experience these places.
Historic climbing routes are part of the recreational and cultural heritage of our public lands. Allowing their continued use and maintenance preserves that legacy while keeping these routes safe for future climbers.
I support the recognition that climbing is an appropriate Wilderness activity and that fixed anchors, critical pieces of the climbing safety system, are allowable in Wilderness. I also support provisions to allow climbers to place or replace fixed anchors without authorization in the event of an emergency. I appreciate that the policy protects existing climbing routes that were developed before the PARC Act was passed into law. Legacy Wilderness climbs should remain available in order to preserve America’s rich climbing legacy.
Please improve policies to expedite timely replacement of fixed anchors in order to avoid unnecessary barriers to climber safety. The authorization process for new climbing routes that require fixed anchors should be easier to navigate. Please provide a clear path for programmatic authorization, or preauthorization, at climbing areas that do not necessitate case-by-case special use permits.