Comment from Tyler Goodfellow
AnonymousSupportIndividual
Summary: A lifelong climber and wilderness advocate supports the policy review as a means to legitimize fixed anchors in designated Wilderness areas for safe passage. However, the commenter specifies that this support is contingent on strict regulations, including a permit process for non-emergency placements and a prohibition on new "sport" climbs.
I'm a lifelong climber and Wilderness Area advocate. I support the legitimatization of fixed rock climbing, canyoneering, mountaineering, etc., anchors (i.e., bolts) in designated Wilderness as allowable "installation" as per the Wilderness Act, but only within clear boundaries. To be clear, what I do NOT support is additional fixed anchor placements in any case beyond what is necessary for safe passage through the route. I do not support new "sport" climbs in Wilderness areas. The policy around bolt placement should be that they are only placed where no other safe alternate (i.e., removable/natural) anchor is available. Any premeditated placement of bolts or other fixed anchors should have to go through an approval process and permit issuance with the Land Manager in the area. Emergency fixed anchor placement should be permitted without approval, but must be reported afterward to the Land Manager. Anchor replacement projects should also go through an approval process with the Land Manager. Each Land Manager entity, whether it be NPS, BLM, USFS, etc., should have the authority to provide regulations and policy as to what kind of fixed anchor is most suitable for that area, and when anchors are appropriate or inappropriate in each specific area. Thank you.