Comment from Barnes, Matthew
Matthew BarnesSupportIndividual
Summary: The commenter supports the USFS's recognition of climbing as a wilderness activity and the inclusion of fixed anchors, while praising the focus on collaboration with Local Climbing Organizations. However, they urge the agency to provide more clarity on the specific processes for creating Climbing Management Plans (CMPs) and handling anchor replacement in areas without existing plans.
Climbing in forest service areas and wilderness lands has been instrumental in my life, and is something that I want to preserve for many generations to come!
I applaud USFS for recognizing that climbing is an appropriate Wilderness activity and for allowing fixed anchors, a critical part of the climbing safety system, in both Wilderness and non-Wilderness lands. I also appreciate that the draft permits discretionary use of fixed anchors based on Climbing Management Plans (CMPs), provided the anchors are unlikely to affect natural or cultural resources. I support that the draft names education and collaboration with Local Climbing Organizations (LCOs) as key management tools.
The draft is unclear on how the CMP process will be drafted, adopted, and will work in practice, particularly around the many nuances of fixed anchor placement and replacement.. Our Local Climbing Organization currently has a great relationship with all Forest Districts in my region, which gives me confidence this policy can be implemented collaboratively. But the details of how and when the CMP is initiated, and how the collaborative process needs to unfold is unclear in this draft policy. It's similarly unclear how new routing and anchor replacement should be handled in areas without an existing CMP. I urge USFS to be more clear on the CMP- creation process and expectations for collaboration with LCOs, line officers, and local climbers.
I applaud the USFS for including climbing approach trails as eligible for review and potential addition to the USFS trail system. This is critical for rescue egress and sustainability of approach trails and staging areas in our heavily used climbing areas. I applaud the continued use of collaboration, stewardship, outreach to Local Climbing Organizations, and education as tools for fixed anchor policy within future climbing management plans.