Comment from Urioste, Joanne
Joanne UriosteSupportIndividual
Summary: An experienced rock climber supports the proposed guidance but suggests specific modifications, including grandfathering existing routes, allowing power drills for bolt replacement and rescues, and adjusting bolt density requirements for casual use. The commenter also proposes a fee system for wilderness rescues to discourage frivolous calls.
Re: Draft Recreational Climbing in Wilderness Guidance. I have been executing major technical rock climbing first ascents in wilderness areas over the past 50 years, so I understand and embrace both old-school and new-school climbing wilderness ethics. I have a few comments at this time and may add more later. 1) Grandfather-in ALL routes prior to 1/2025. Do not erase any of them. If this is not done, many existing routes may remain "in hiding." This means that they may not be published or shared. 2) For replacing old/rusty bolts on existing routes, please pre-authorize these projects and allow a power drill. If hand drilling is required or if upgrading hardware is delayed, it can take years of effort to keep long routes safe. 3) For rescues, DO ALLOW for power drills without prior permission. 4) Change the bolt density for Casual Use from "100-foot radius" to "50-foot radius or less" which accommodates the reality of pitches being of various lengths, not simply all being 100 feet long. 5) There is an urgent need to reduce blatantly frivolous rescues in wilderness. I suggest that each rescue carries a fee. This fee can be waived if the rescue is deemed "not frivolous."