Comment from Elliot, Benjamin

Benjamin ElliotSupportTrade association
Summary: The Vice President of the Climbing Association of Southern Arizona supports the proposed guidance recognizing climbing as an appropriate wilderness use and allowing for the maintenance of fixed anchors. The commenter advocates for a partnership approach between land managers and climbing organizations, requesting streamlined processes for anchor replacement and programmatic authorizations for established climbing areas.
As Vice President of the Climbing Association of Southern Arizona, I have seen firsthand that climbers care deeply about protecting the wild places where we climb. One example is the way our community responds to wildlife concerns. CASA regularly communicates seasonal closures and other protections for sensitive species, including the annual Pusch Ridge Wilderness closure for desert bighorn sheep during lambing season. We also share information about nesting raptors and encourage climbers to avoid active nests. In Cochise Stronghold, formal raptor closures were allowed to lapse after wildlife conditions improved. Even without a mandatory closure, CASA continued asking climbers to stay away from active nests. Climbers listened. They changed plans, avoided particular routes and crags, and gave the birds the space they needed. That experience has reinforced my belief that climbing access and wilderness protection are not opposing goals. Climbers form lasting relationships with these landscapes. Because we return to the same cliffs, canyons, and wilderness areas over many years, we notice changes, report resource concerns, educate other visitors, and help protect the places we value. I’ve been a recreational climber, a guide, steward of the land, and now I serve as a volunteer in a leadership position. With few exceptions, my experience has shown me that the climbing community cares deeply about public land and is eager to serve as partners to land managers. It has also shown me that site-specific management, clear communication, and collaboration are often more effective than broad prohibitions. When agencies explain what resource needs protection and why, local climbing organizations can quickly share that information and encourage responsible behavior. I support guidance that recognizes climbing, including the responsible placement and maintenance of limited fixed anchors, as an appropriate wilderness use. Existing routes should remain available, and aging safety equipment should be eligible for routine, one-for-one replacement. At the same time, agencies should retain the ability to use targeted seasonal or route-specific restrictions when documented wildlife, cultural, or wilderness-resource concerns require them. Please finalize guidance that protects wilderness character while treating climbers and local climbing organizations as partners in stewardship. I support the recognition that climbing is an appropriate Wilderness activity and that fixed anchors, critical pieces of the climbing safety system, are allowable in Wilderness. I also support provisions to allow climbers to place or replace fixed anchors without authorization in the event of an emergency. I appreciate that the policy protects existing climbing routes that were developed before the PARC Act was passed into law. Legacy Wilderness climbs should remain available in order to preserve America’s rich climbing legacy. Please improve policies to expedite timely replacement of fixed anchors in order to avoid unnecessary barriers to climber safety. The authorization process for new climbing routes that require fixed anchors should be easier to navigate. Please provide a clear path for programmatic authorization, or preauthorization, at climbing areas that do not necessitate case-by-case special use permits.

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