Comment from Thaw, Melissa

I climb and have been climbing on federal lands since 2011, from Red Rock Canyon NV, Wind River Range, WY, Lover's Leap, Inyo National Forest, Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, Sierra National Forest, Yosemite National Park, CA, the North Cascades, WA, etc. Climbing is one of my primary recreational activities. I climb once a week or more outside on public land. I generally use most of my vacation time rock climbing on federal lands. Safety is important to me and in many places fixed anchors are needed to safely descend after a climb. It is extremely important that existing fixed anchors are allowed to be maintained and replaced when needed. When I learned to climb, I had a mentor who taught me climbing ethics. Climbing ethics are important within the climbing community and include leave no trace and safety concepts. This means that the climbing community is effective in managing itself and government interference is generally not needed. Additionally, taking responsibility for one's own safety and risk assessment/management is also an important part of climbing. Respect for the environment and respect for others' experience are also important climbing ethics. Climbing bolts are inconspicuous, can be painted to blend with the rock and are unintrusive to other users. Climbing is an important part of American culture and history. I support the recognition that climbing is an appropriate Wilderness activity and that fixed anchors, critical pieces of the climbing safety system, are allowable in Wilderness. I also support provisions to allow climbers to place or replace fixed anchors without authorization in the event of an emergency. I appreciate that the policy protects existing climbing routes that were developed before the PARC Act was passed into law. Legacy Wilderness climbs should remain available in order to preserve America’s rich climbing legacy. Please improve policies to expedite timely replacement of fixed anchors in order to avoid unnecessary barriers to climber safety. The authorization process for new climbing routes that require fixed anchors should be easier to navigate. Please provide a clear path for programmatic authorization, or preauthorization, at climbing areas that do not necessitate case-by-case special use permits. The number and configuration of bolts and anchors should not be limited through policy or regulation, but rather needs to be decided by the route developer due to the variety of scenarios and route characteristics. The number and configuration of bolts and anchors should be determined by the climber installing them. New anchors and bolts should be allowed and development protected. Development of policies and regulations should be done in close communication and cooperation with local climbers, local climbing stewards, climbing groups and associations, the Access fund and American Safe Climbing Association because these organizations and people can provide area specific and technical knowledge federal staff may not have. Throughout climbing history, route developers have successfully installed anchors and bolts appropriate for each climb and this should be allowed to be continued. Climbing is a community self-regulated and self-managed activity that cannot be replaced by non-climbers (government) who do not possess the knowledge or expertise that only comes from climbing itself. Rather than spending tax dollars on adding layers of bureaucracy, resources should be put toward supporting organizations like the American Safe Climbing Association, trail maintenance and environmental stewardship.