Comment on FR Doc # N/A
AnonymousSupportIndividual
Summary: The commenter, a long-time climber, supports the recognition of climbing as a wilderness activity and the use of fixed anchors for safety. They argue against government-managed permit systems for bolts, advocating instead for self-moderated installation and streamlined programmatic authorizations to ensure safety and access.
Climbing in the Wilderness areas of the western US has been something I've enjoyed for over 25 years, and look forward to for as long as I can. I look forward to introducing my son to the Wilderness through climbing, which is something my father shared with me as a young boy and teenager.
Fixed anchors are crucial components of Wilderness climbing, as they allow for safe passage and descent through terrain that would otherwise be inaccessible and unusable from a recreation standpoint. Continuing judicious and self-moderated installation of all forms of fixed anchors should be the ongoing standard in all Wilderness areas. Climbers have been responsible for placing, maintaining, and inspecting all fixed anchors in Wilderness since the passage of the Act. Nothing should change in this regard, and climbers should remain responsible for this role. This is not an appropriate responsibility for government agencies to take on, and any proposed plans for permits for bolt installation will likely result in de facto moratorium on installation of such anchors. I am very familiar with the ongoing efforts of the USFS to develop management and legislate bolt use and placement in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming, and almost 7 years after the "temporary" ban nothing has changed and no permit system has been effectively implemented.
Legislating placement of fixed anchors is beyond the scope of practical management from any nationwide governing agency, and places an undue burden of responsibility and accountability upon the governing agencies. The future success of continued management and climbing access without impractical and undue burdens relies upon realistic expectations of climbing management and what is a reasonable expectation for how the governing agencies will most effectively facilitate climbing access and safety concerns.
I support the recognition that climbing is an appropriate Wilderness activity and that fixed anchors, critical pieces of the climbing safety system, are allowable in Wilderness. I also support provisions to allow climbers to place or replace fixed anchors without authorization in the event of an emergency. I appreciate that the policy protects existing climbing routes that were developed before the PARC Act was passed into law. Legacy Wilderness climbs should remain available in order to preserve America’s rich climbing legacy.
Please improve policies to expedite timely replacement of fixed anchors in order to avoid unnecessary barriers to climber safety. The authorization process for new climbing routes that require fixed anchors should be easier to navigate. Please provide a clear path for programmatic authorization, or preauthorization, at climbing areas that do not necessitate case-by-case special use permits.